Philips X-reme Power - calitate slaba pe bani multi

[XENON]

am becuri X-treme Power pe masina. am citit mai de mult pe un forum ca cineva nu era multumit de ele fiindca i s-au ars repede.
mie mi s-a ars un bec dupa aprox. 15.000km (pe faza scurta). e drept ca merg f. mult noaptea, dar parca nici un an sa tina nu mi se pare OK.
dar asta nu e tot! (vorba celor de la teleshopping ) dupa ce l-am inlocuit am observat chestia cea mai urata. becul nou lumineaza alb intens, asa cum m-au impresionat prima data cand le-am pus pe masina, in timp ce becul vechi e galbui, aproape nici o diferenta fata de un bec obisnuit. de cand erau ambele becuri vechi mi s-a parut ca si-au pierdut din intensitate, dar dupa schimbarea celuilalt diferenta e absolut evidenta.

[mbc]

eu am becurile mele de ceva timp si pot sa zic ca sunt la fel de multumit ca si in prima zi. In comparatie cu xantia, lumina e mult mai alba. si aici vreau sa zic ca vizibil cu ochiul liber (pe xantia nu am apucat sa schimb becurile). Eu nu circul prea mult noaptea dar circul non-stop cu farurile pornite, deci e cam acelasi lucru. cand intru pe o strada intunecata sau ies din oras si nu e luminat, mi se pare ca lumina e excelenta. cand merg in spatele unei masini care nu are xenon, de multe ori ma uit la culoarea luminii si de cele mai multe ori lumina mea e mai alba. Sa nu uitam totusi ca eu am faruri destul de vechi si partial uzate, deci nu am pretentii maxime. Oricum, per total sunt foarte multumit.

Ar trebui sa verifici sursa becurilor (locul din care le-ai cumparat) sa nu cumva sa fi picat pe becuri contrafacute. Daca era ceva problema, sigur o ziceam TARE pana acum (vezi faza cu xenonul) dar nu sunt.

[vldst]

Xenon, parca scrie pe ambalajul de la Philips... Daca se arde un bec, trebuie inlocuit tot setul de 2 becuri. Asta pentru ca se intampla exact ceea ce ai constatat si tu: diferenta de luminozitate intre becul nou si becul vechi. Asta e, trebuie sa bagi mana mai adanc in buzunar, adica exact ceea ce-si doresc producatorii.

Parerea mea este ca un set de becuri de calitate, folosit intens, trebuie sa te tina cel putin 6 luni. Daca regimul de utilizare e mai putin sever, te poti astepta sa te tina si un an.

Alternativa ar fi becurile cu xenon, care insa se duc si ele, in functie de producator si calitatea lor. Daca-mi aduc bine aminte, un set de becuri cu halogen ar trebui sa tina in jur de 1.000 de ore, in timp ce becurile cu xenon au o durata de viata estimata la 3.000 de ore. Nu trebuie uitat insa ca la becurile cu xenon mai exista si balasturile, care pot pica si ele. Ma rog, o parte din problemele cu becurile cu xenon le poti rezolva pe garantie, daca le cumperi dintr-o sursa de incredere. M-a tentat si pe mine ideea sa-mi montez becuri cu xenon, dar am renuntat. In tarile mai la Vest de noi, montarea unui kit cu xenon after-market este ilegala fara auto-leveling si spalatoare de faruri. In tara lui Papura Voda insa e posibil orice. Chiar ieri am vazut pe la Arcul de Triumf unul cu un Logan care avea xenoane pe faza scurta si pe proiectoare :x Inutil sa-ti mai spun ca masina aluia semana cu o instalatie de nocturna de pe stadioane. Imi venea sa iau o piatra sa-i fac farurile praf si pulbere.

[mbc]

cu riscul de a ma repeta (am spus-o foarte clar pe topicul despre xenon) e inadecvat sa pui xenon pe un far care a fost conceput pentru becuri halogen. Lumina bate in toate directiile (inutil sa spun ca bate in ochii celui din fata). Mai mult, cea mai mare problema este cu faza lunga la H4. Faza lunga bate foarte aiurea, undeva prea aproape de masina si e ENORM de obositor. Mare atentie deci, ca eu m-am fript o data :p

[mbc]

merita citite cu atentie primele cateva review-uri
http://www.elkparts.com/product_reviews ... 8c11505d13

citat, primul review
Good bulbs but one failed after 6 months of low use and are only available in pairs.

[ELKPARTS comment] Please be aware that any headlamp bulb failure can be attributed to a number of reasons:

1. Handling of the bulb with your bare fingers (Don\'t do this!)
2. Bulb not located and secured properly (resulting in excessive vibration)
3. Bulbs not installed in pairs (always install in pairs at the same time - even if only one previous bulb failed)
4. Bad luck.

These bulbs are amongst the best that you can buy. Do not confuse increased performance with reduced life expectancy - this is not the case. These bulbs perform just aswell, if not better, than cheaper and unbranded bulbs.

We have been running bulbs like this in our cars for long periods of time without issue.

[mbc]

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/195-h ... bulbs.html

[XENON]

poate la mine a fost doar nr. 4 (bad luck), dar faptul ca celalalt e asa de "galbejit" ma deranjeaza cel mai mult. sunt cumparate de la ASPAD (importator), deci nu e cazul de fake-uri, dar oricum nu cred ca ar falsifica cineva un produs de serie asa mica.

[mbc]

am mai citit si am trimis un mail celor de la daniel stern lighting. mai jos am raspunsul. Ce m-a desumflat un pic este ca diferenta masurata intre Becurile +50 si becurile +80 este infima. Cele +50 au o lumina de de 1750 lumeni iar cele +80 au 1780 de lumeni, deci fix zero in plus. Cu toate acestea, se pare ca si cele +30 au 1700. cu alte cuvinte:
diferenta de la standard la:
+30 este de 9%
+50 este de 13%
+80 este de 15%

Judecand la rece, cei 2% diferenta intre 50 si 80 nu merita banii MULTI dati in plus.

aici e mesajul intreg:
I've looked for a description of Philips' X-treme power bulbs (h4 especially) and I have seend non of it. Can I find such a test/comparison info on your site?


The Xtreme Power is a bulb that gives very, very good performance, but has a short lifespan. It may or may not be the best pick depending on what kind of vehicle you're working with, and what kind of headlamps.

For reference, here's manufacturer data, from internal engineering databases, for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type you consider. Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.

H1 (regular normal):
1550 lumens, 650 hours

Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+")
1460 lumens, 1200 hours

Plus-30 High Efficacy (Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Candlepower Bright Light, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium):
1700 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):
1750 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker):
1780 lumens, 340 hours

Blue coated 'extra white' (Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, which is just a rebrand of the Silverstar product, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc):
1380 lumens, 250 hours

Now, looking over these results, which one would you rather:

(a) Buy and drive with?
(b) Sell?

The answer to (a) depends on how well you want to see versus how often to change the bulb. If you want the best possible seeing, you pick the Plus-50 or Plus-90. If you don't care as long as it works and you don't want to hassle with it, you pick the long life.

The answer to (b) is determined by how rich your company's shareholders want you to be, and is obvious: You want to sell the bulb with the shortest lifespan, highest promotability and highest price. That'd be the blue unit, e.g. Sylvania Silverstar.

Keep in mind how the various "plus" claims (+30, +50, +80, +90, etc.) are devised: The plus-numbers cannot be attained simply through greater intensity from the bulb, because of intensity and wattage restrictions contained in bulb regulations prevailing worldwide. The "Plus" bulbs do produce near the maximum allowable flux but that's obviously not the whole story. These bulbs have higher filament luminance and give better beam focus because the filament coil itself is smaller. Headlamp optics are calculated based on a point source. The smaller the filament, the more closely it approximates a point source, and therefore the better the focus of the resultant beam pattern. The better the focus of the beam pattern, the higher the beam peak intensity (that is, the brighter the "hot spot"). Depending on the particular bulb and the specific headlamp optic in use, the gain in hot spot intensity can indeed be up to 50% (80%, 90%, whatever) at some specific _but not uniform or predictable_ point in the beam. In practice, that means once Osram or Philips or whoever have designed their newest bulb, they throw the nearest convenient intern in a room with a bunch of headlamps and have him photometer them until the one that gives the single greatest increase (at any point in the beam!) is found, then they give the intern a food pellet as a reward. Tungsram called their 2nd-generation upgrade H4 "+60" either because they were lying or because they found a headlamp for a 1983 Tatra or something that had 60% more light in one particular spot. That doesn't mean the Tungsram "+60" H4 was better than the "+50" bulbs from Philips, Osram, and Narva -- it wasn't! So, those "+30" and "+50" and "+80" type numbers are not necessarily a trick or a scam, it just doesn't mean what most people assume it means.